Vivienne Westwood vs. Rei Kawakubo: Who Defines Punk Fashion?
The National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne is known for its dual artist exhibitions, previously featuring pairs like Andy Warhol and Ai Weiwei. Their latest exhibition, titled Westwood|Kawakubo, showcases the works of two iconic fashion designers, Vivienne Westwood and Rei Kawakubo. This exhibit opened last week and will run until April 19, showcasing how these two women shaped the punk fashion movement.
Punk Fashion Icons: Vivienne Westwood and Rei Kawakubo
Both designers are recognized for their distinct interpretations of punk fashion, despite being born just a year apart—Westwood in 1941 in England and Kawakubo in 1942 in Japan. While they created during the same era, the exhibit organizes their works thematically instead of chronologically. Key themes explored include:
- Punk and Provocation
- The Body: Freedom and Restraint
- The Power of Clothes
Significant collections from the past decades are highlighted, including Westwood’s Anglomania and Kawakubo’s Lumps and Bumps. A notable collaboration between the two took place in 2002.
Subversion and Innovation in Punk Fashion
Vivienne Westwood is often celebrated for her bold approach to punk culture. She was an outspoken advocate for her views, using her designs to challenge societal norms. In contrast, Rei Kawakubo prefers her work to speak for itself, emphasizing the importance of innovation without being influenced by past conventions.
Katy Somerville, the curator of fashion and textiles at NGV, points out the freedom intrinsic to both designers. While neither self-identifies as a feminist, both embody independence and non-conformity, key values in their craftsmanship.
The Influence of Curation
Somerville reflects on her experience curating the exhibition, noting the profound impact of Kawakubo’s creations. Many pieces arrived without clear terminology for their categorization, which challenged the norm. This underscores the innovative nature of Kawakubo’s work.
According to Somerville, when Westwood started addressing socio-political issues more aggressively, her ideas initially went unacknowledged. Both designers catalyzed significant changes in fashion, such as:
- Blending men’s and women’s fashion on runways
- Introducing underwear as outerwear
- Reinventing corsets in eveningwear
The Role of Fashion in Personal Expression
Fashion served as a medium for both designers to express their personal journeys. For Westwood, crafting garments was a personal endeavor tied to her upbringing. Kawakubo began her career with a stylist’s perspective, recognizing early on the transformative power of clothing.
Ultimately, when considering who best defines punk in fashion, Somerville emphasizes that both women have intrinsic ties to the movement. Westwood is often dubbed the queen of punk from the seventies, while Kawakubo’s innovative approach to design elevates her status in punk’s heritage.
The Westwood|Kawakubo exhibition offers a compelling exploration of these groundbreaking designers. The audience is reminded not only of their influence on fashion but also of the cultural shifts they helped instigate.
