New WaPo Food Critic Sets Unique Standards: NPR
Elazar Sontag, the newly appointed food critic at The Washington Post, is redefining restaurant criticism in Washington, D.C. His approach emphasizes accessibility and community engagement, moving away from traditional anonymity.
New Standards in Food Criticism
Sontag took over the position in November, following Tom Sietsema, who served for 25 years. After working for Bon Appétit as a restaurant editor, Sontag brings fresh perspectives to the field.
A Shift from Anonymity
One of Sontag’s key changes is the abandonment of the well-established practice of anonymity in restaurant reviews. He believes showing his face can enhance the connection with the audience. “How do we make restaurant criticism feel accessible?” he asked. This approach aims to bridge the gap between chefs, diners, and critics.
Reviving the Star Rating System
Alongside ending anonymity, Sontag has reinstated the star rating system. He views this as a practical decision that aligns with generational changes in how dining experiences are shared and evaluated.
Choosing Unique Venues
During a lunch meeting with the NPR team, Sontag chose a church cafeteria behind a parking lot at Mt. Vernon Square. This venue, known as Saint’s Paradise Cafeteria, serves soul food and reflects his vision of inclusive food criticism.
- Location: Mt. Vernon Square, Washington, D.C.
- Type of Cuisine: Soul food
- Venue: Saint’s Paradise Cafeteria at The United House of Prayer for All People
Sontag describes this cafeteria as more than just a dining spot. He calls it “almost a living piece of history,” emphasizing its significance within the local community. This perspective shows his intent to elevate less conventional locations to the level of high-end restaurants.
Community Engagement in Reviews
Sontag’s mission is clear: to make restaurant criticism relevant and relatable for everyone. He aims to bring attention to community spaces, encouraging diners to explore unique eateries that offer rich cultural experiences.
Through his innovative approach, Elazar Sontag is setting new standards for food criticism. His focus on inclusivity and engagement could inspire a broader audience to connect with the culinary landscape of Washington, D.C.
