California Farmer Devastated as Local Winery Rejects His Grapes

Brandon Sywassink, the general manager of Manna Ranch in San Joaquin County, faced a devastating moment when he arrived at a local winery in Lodi with his harvest of grapes. After months of nurturing his crop, he received heartbreaking news: his grapes were rejected due to a low brix level.
What Happened with the Grapes?
Sywassink’s grapes measured at 23.9 brix, just 0.1 brix short of the required 24 brix. This minor shortfall resulted in the rejection of 25 tons of grapes, which were worth between $10,000 and $15,000. As a consequence, he was instructed to dump them, leading to significant financial loss.
Consequences for Farmers
- This incident highlights the stringent quality standards imposed by large wineries on local growers.
- Stuart Spencer, executive director of the Lodi Winegrape Commission, pointed out that such rejections are increasingly common.
- Many growers receive income only once a year, meaning a single rejected crop can be devastating.
The Broader Impact on California Growers
California grape growers are feeling the pressure from strict domestic quality standards, alongside the influx of cheaper foreign wine imports. This situation has resulted in smaller producers, like Sywassink, being cornered by large companies that dictate all aspects of the sales process.
Challenges in Farming
The situation for farmers is made even more difficult by rising input costs. Since 2020, fertilizer prices have risen by 37%, seed costs by 18%, and fuel costs by 32%. Moreover, the USDA estimates a 23% decline in net farm income for 2024.
Compounding their struggles, climate volatility continues to pose challenges. Subtle changes in humidity, sunlight, and rainfall can affect a crop’s chemistry, jeopardizing meticulous planning.
Lessons and Recommendations
Sywassink’s experience underscores the need for diversification in agriculture, akin to financial management. Farmers are advised not to depend on a single buyer, as such reliance carries risks similar to freelancers with one client.
- Consider crop insurance from the USDA Risk Management Agency.
- Investors should be aware of climate risks affecting agriculture.
- Consumers can support local growers by purchasing locally labeled wine.
Even after facing this setback, Sywassink is determined to keep trying. He believes in the value of farming in Lodi and aims to highlight the region’s quality products. His story illustrates the fragility and resilience of small farmers in today’s competitive market, where small differences in quality can lead to significant financial consequences.